Sunday, December 7, 2008

Before I Take My Leave - Final Update

I will always be glad to have had this chance to visit India. . .


1) visit the Taj Mahal

2) gaze upon the Himalayas

3) swim in the Indian Ocean

4) stand on the southern-most tip of the Indian subcontinent.

5) experience the magic of Rajastan's medieval cities: Jaipur, Jodhpur, and Udaipur










I take my leave of India at the end of this week. It's been an absolutely amazing 4+ months on the Indian subcontinent. I have somehow, someway managed to do most of what I set out to do. There are certainly things left undone, sights left unseen, experiences left un-experienced, but seeing most of the items on the above list crossed-off is quite satisfying.



Correction to one saying: getting there is not always half the fun. Sometimes getting there is no fun at all!

Confirmation of another: For all sad words of tongue and pen, the saddest are these 'It might have been'. . .(John Greenleaf Whittier)

Travel in this country is certainly not easy. In fact, it's incredibly difficult. It simultaneously makes you want to scream, cry, curl up in a fetal position on the floor, and desperately wish you were back home safe and sound. While making various flight and hotel reservations, I stared at that confirm button for a very long time before finally clicking on it, all the time wondering what obstacles fate and/or the travel gods had in store for me. Obviously, it was always going to be far easier not to travel, but I didn't want to leave India with any regrets and certainly not with the feeling that I had wasted this probably once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Fortunately, and without exception, the destinations and end-experiences were always worth the ever-attendant and oft-plentiful travel headaches. It certainly helps that the not-so-enjoyable experiences seem to quickly recede into distant, hazy memories with time, while the enjoyable ones remain fresh and vivid. I leave with no regrets and only fond memories.



I want to thank and acknowledge all the Wikipedia contributors and the Lonely Planet India travel guide authors. I hope I gave them credit whenever it was due for the histories and descriptions of the people, places, and sites included in my blog entries. They were a tremendous resource.

Finally, I want to thank all of you out there. I hope you have enjoyed reading about my experiences as much as I have enjoyed bringing them to you. If my words and photos have been able to convey even the tiniest bit of wonder and amazement on offer in this land of India, I consider my time spent blogging time well spent.



So. . .it's absolutely true that I will always be glad to have had this chance to visit India. . .but I am equally glad that it's now time to go home. . .

. . .speaking of which. . .

I have one more stop to make on my journey westward before arriving back in Hermosa Beach, California, U.S.A. I'll chronicle that experience on this blog as well. We'll call it the beginning of the repatriation of this current expatriate. It might be a couple of weeks before any new entries appear, but please check back right before Christmas if you get a chance. I'll certainly be finished with this blog by New Year's Eve, which just may be a fitting end date to this saga.

I wish everyone a very happy holiday season, safe travels, a very Merry Christmas, and a very Happy New Year. . .



Friday, December 5, 2008

The Epic Journey of The Box. . .concluded

Day 5: The Box is safe and sound. . .


The delivery notice was signed and left out on the front door. . .



The final FedEx Tracking Entry for The Box :

Date and Time: December 4, 11:23am
Activity: Delivered
Location: Edmonds, WA, U.S.A


Thursday, December 4, 2008

The Epic Journey of The Box. . .continued

Day 4: The Box has arrived. . .


I am stunned.



FedEx Tracking Entries for The Box as of December 4th, 10:00am IST:

Date and Time: December 1, 6:42pm
Activity: Pick up
Location: Bangalore, India

Date and Time: December 1, 10:42pm
Activity: Left facility of origin
Location: Bangalore, India

Date and Time: December 2, 6:29am
Activity: In transit
Location: Mumbai, India

Date and Time: December 2, 10:44pm
Activity: Departed FedEx location
Location: Paris, France

Date and Time: December 3, 1:00am
Activity: In transit
Location: Memphis, Tennessee, U.S.A. (!)
Details: package available for clearance

Date and Time: December 3, 3:58am
Activity: Departed FedEx location
Location: Memphis, Tennessee, U.S.A.

Date and Time: December 3, 6:02am
Activity: At destination sort facility
Location: Seattle, WA, U.S.A.

Date and Time: December 3, 8:10am
Activity: At local FedEx facility
Location: Bothell, WA, U.S.A.

Date and Time: December 3, 8:20am
Activity: On FedEx vehicle for delivery
Location: Bothell, WA, U.S.A.

Date and Time: December 3, 10:20am
Activity: Delivery exception
Location: Bothell, WA, U.S.A.
Details: Customer not available - Signature required


I am going to assume all the above times are local times. December 3, 10:20am on the U.S. west coast translates to December 3, 11:50pm here in India. Total elapsed time from pickup here to delivery there: 2 days, 5 hours, 8 minutes. A tip of the hat to FedEx.

I hope my journey home is as quick and as seemingly painless.


Wednesday, December 3, 2008

The Epic Journey of The Box. . .continued

Day 3: The Box has arrived in the U.S.A. . .


FedEx Tracking Entries for The Box as of December 3rd, 5:00pm IST:

Date and Time: December 1, 6:42pm
Activity: Pick up
Location: Bangalore, India

Date and Time: December 1, 10:42pm
Activity: Left facility of origin
Location: Bangalore, India

Date and Time: December 2, 6:29am
Activity: In transit
Location: Mumbai, India

Date and Time: December 2, 10:44pm
Activity: Departed FedEx location
Location: Paris, France

Date and Time: December 3, 1:00am
Activity: In transit
Location: Memphis, Tennessee, U.S.A. (!)
Details: package available for clearance

Date and Time: December 3, 3:58am
Activity: Departed FedEx location
Location: Memphis, Tennessee, U.S.A.


December 4th is still the "Estimated Delivery Date". I'm beginning to believe them.


Tuesday, December 2, 2008

The Epic Journey of The Box. . .continued

Day 2: So far. . .so good. . .


. . .but with one small hiccup. . .

"You know that FedEx account number you used yesterday?"
"Yeah. . ."
"It actually doesn't belong to us. It belongs to [the parent company of our current employer]. You probably weren't supposed to use that one."
"What do you think that means for The Box?"
"I don't know. . .but I'm sure it's going to be fine."



FedEx Tracking Entries for The Box as of December 2nd, 5:00pm IST:

Date and Time: December 1, 6:42pm
Activity: Pick up
Location: Bangalore, India

Date and Time: December 1, 10:42pm
Activity: Left facility of origin
Location: Bangalore, India

Date and Time: December 2, 6:29am
Activity: In transit
Location: Mumbai, India


They even list December 4th as the "Estimated Delivery Date", which seems a little too good to be true.


Monday, December 1, 2008

The Epic Journey of The Box

So it begins. . .


I packed gifts and souvenirs into The Box yesterday. I took The Box into work today to have it shipped back to the U.S. (my Mom and Dad's house in Edmonds, WA to be precise). I am shipping The Box via FedEx. From India. Things could go very smoothly. . .or not. . .



The Epic Journey of The Box begins in Bangalore at about 4:00pm IST (Indian Standard Time).

I hand The Box to our central production assistant, who has been charged with making all of this happen. I hand him a printout of the "ship to" address printed on it. I hand him a printout with the FedEx account number to use. He is kind enough to print out a "sent by" address label for me. I check and double check the addresses more than once.

The "ship to" address gets taped to the box, as does the "sent by" address. For some reason two members of our office security staff have just appeared. I'm not sure why. Maybe they heard about The Box and want to come take a look for themselves. Maybe they just need something to do this afternoon. The two of them make our little group a group of four, although I am not much more than the innocent, but obviously very interested, bystander. The others talk amongst themselves for a few minutes. There are then multiple phone calls placed to other people, two of whom suddenly appear a few minutes later. There are now six of us standing there staring at The Box. One of the group says something (in the local language, which probably is for the best as I undoubtedly do not want to hear what is actually being discussed), which is followed by a few moments of silence, followed by the other four chipping in with some comment or another, followed by more silence. This pattern is repeated a couple of times.

I'm not quite sure what to think at this point. I just want The Box sent. Other boxes get sent all around the world, all the time.

I do get a few chuckles and more than a few eye-rolls from the passersby who know what I am attempting to do. I'm glad I can provide them a little afternoon entertainment.

I am not sure who placed the actual phone call, or when said phone call was actually placed, but
the FedEx guy shows up a little after 5pm. I feel a little better now. This guy will surely take care of The Box. There's more talk. . .and then more silence. Finally they decide they need a list of the box contents and an overall value. I quickly provide both. There's more talk. . .and more silence. They all disappear somewhere downstairs for a little while. Actually more than a little while.

It is literally an hour from the time the FedEx guy first shows up to the time he leaves (hopefully/presumably with The Box). I do not see him actually walk out the door and put The Box on his truck. He does, however, present me with a FedEx International Air Waybill before he goes. On this little piece of paper is the all-important FedEx Tracking Number. I expect to make good use of this number over the coming days.

I will keep all of you apprised of the location of The Box, as I'm sure it's safe arrival at my Mom and Dad's is as important to all of you as it is to me. I appreciate all your good thoughts and well wishes.



How long will it take? I will wildly, possibly optimistically, guess at eight working days, which would put the package on my Mom and Dad's doorstep on or about the 10th of December. But I'll settle for anytime before Christmas. . .

Wait. . .who am I kidding?. . .I'll just settle for anytime!



Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Darjeeling

Worth every bit of the accumulated travel misery it took to get here. . .


Location: 27.03 degrees North latitude; 88.16 degrees East longitude
Elevation: 7001 ft (+/- a couple of hundred feet depending upon where exactly in Darjeeling you happen to be at the time)
Weather: cold!!! mid/upper 40's during the day, 30's at night

Darjeeling is the quintessential Himalayan hill station: draped across a steep mountain ridge with the magnificent Mt. Khangchendzonga looming above. During the British Raj in India, Darjeeling's temperate climate led to its development as a summer retreat for British residents seeking an escape from the heat of the plains. Darjeeling became known as the Summer Capital.


Darjeeling

It's as if someone took a box of blocks up to the mountain ridge, tipped it over, and let the blocks tumble down the hillsides. . .


















Tenzing Norgay & The Himalayan Mountain Institute

mostly from Lonely Planet:
Tenzing Norgay was just 18 years old when he left his village in Tibet in 1932 to seek adventure and income with the new European-led mountaineering expeditions. The Planters' Club in Darjeeling became home base for sherpas hoping to be hired onto the expeditions. After several attempts on Everest and numerous successful climbs on other peaks over the intervening decades, Tenzing Norgay joined John Hunt's 1953 British Everest expedition. It was this expedition that also included a New Zealand bee keeper by the name of Edmund Hillary. The rest. . .as they say. . .is history. The pair were the first to successfully ascend and equally as important return from the summit of Mt. Everest. The date was May 29th, 1953. They spent 15 minutes on the summit, of which Hillary remarked "A symmetrical, beautiful snow cone summit". Tenzing Norgay became a world figure much in demand, but remained in Darjeeling to be with his family. He helped establish the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in 1954 and served as it's first director.








Batasia War Memorial

The Batasia War Memorial was constructed by the Zilla Sainik board in Darjeeling in memory of all the brave ghorka (the region in and around the area) soldiers of the Darjeeling hills who have laid down their lives for the country in all wars and operations since Indian independence in 1947. The memorial was sanctified on 22nd March 1995.








It seemed to be "the thing to do": dress up in period costume and get your picture taken. I never found out what "period" the costumes represented. it seemed to be just the women who were doing this. . .


and of course, wherever there be tourists. . .there be a little bazaar with people displaying their wares. One of the noticeable differences in Darjeeling in comparison to the other places I have visited is the lack of harassment by the merchants. They just were happy to let you look without trying to give you the unrelenting hard sell. It was very nice for a change. . .



Japanese Peace Pagoda

The Japanese Peace Pagoda is one of more than 70 such pagodas built by the Japanese Buddhist Nipponzan Myohoji organization.






The Buddhist Monasteries

Buddhism is the prevalent religion practived in this part of northern India. There are many Tibetan gompas (monasteries) sprinkled around Darjeeling. Here are a few. . .

. . .the Bhutia Busty Gompa on the northern lower slopes of Darjeeling. . .





. . .the Samten Choling Gompa. . .






. . .and the Druk Sangak Choling Gompa. . .










"Thus spoke the Buddha, do not do anything harmful, do only what is good, discipline your own mind. This is the teaching of the Buddha."



Tiger Hill

Tiger Hill is just outside/above the little town of Ghum, which itself is about 10 km south of Darjeeling. The top of Tiger Hill sits at an elevation of 2590m (8497 ft), which is easily going to be the highest altitude attained on my travels here in India. Watching the sun rise over the Himalayas from Tiger Hill is just "one of those touristy things you should do", so I get up at 3:30am and climb into a jeep at 4:00am for the 30 minute ride down to Ghum and then up Tiger Hill. It's very early on a Monday morning. The previous couple of days have not been crystal clear. I think I'm probably going to be one of the only people stupid enough to want to do this this morning. How wrong I am. There must be a thousand people up here by 5:00am. It's a little unbelievable. The predawn sky is absolutely filled with stars. This is worth the early hour and the bone-chilling cold all by itself. The skies begin to lighten at about 5:30am. Unfortunately, there are enough low clouds and mist that most of Mt. Khangchendzonga and the rest of the Himalayan range remains hidden from view this morning, but this is what I do see. . .





That's Darjeeling spread along and down that mountain ridge in the middle of the below photo. . .





Mt. Khangchendzonga

Mt. Khangchendzonga is the highest peak in India and the 3rd highest peak in the entire world, behind only Everest and K-2. It reaches an altitude of 8598m (28,207 ft). The name "Khangchendzonga" is derived from the Tibetan words for "big five-peaked snow fortress".









Local Fauna Update

The Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park was established in 1958 to study, and hopefully preserve the animals that call the Himalayas home. The animals are supposedly very well taken care of, but they are still housed in relatively small cages and enclosures so I'm not going to include any photos. The primary reason I visit the zoo is to see the elusive Himalayan snow leopard. They have a pair of them, and they are absolutely magnificent creatures.


I also spend about 15 minutes on my last morning in Darjeeling gazing out at Mt. Khangchendzonga. I hope to glimpse and (obviously) photograph the elusive Yeti (a.k.a. The Abominable Snowman) and finally settle the debate once and for all. Alas, I have no luck. I think I probably just needed a pair of binoculars. . .


And Finally. . .

The Himalayan mountains as seen from the inside of an airplane at 34,000 ft. . .




I have gazed upon the Himalayas. . .