Sunday, September 21, 2008

Mumbai

Location: 18.96 degrees north latitude, 72.82 degrees east longitude
Elevation: 26 feet

Mumbai (formally known as Bombay) is the most populous city in India (13 million people!), the capital city of the state of Maharashta, and the commercial and entertainment capital of India. Mumbai sits right on the Indian Ocean/Arabian Sea. Mumbai is about an hour-and-a-half flight north north-west from Bangalore.



Travelled up to Mumbai this weekend, extensibly to do some recruiting. The majority of Indian visual effects and animation companies are located up here (the home of Bollywood), so we thought a day of in-person interviews would be of benefit to us, and certainly preferable to the vagaries of telephone interviews of the past weeks.

Saturday was spent either travelling and then in a hotel business center room interviewing people.
(it was a 7am flight and a one hour trip to the airport and they want you there one hour early. I'll leave figuring out what time my alarm went off this morning as an exercise for the reader. Hint: it was early!)

The interrogation room. . .I mean interview room at the Grand Hyatt - Santa Cruz Station Hotel. . .




Please try to not be too jealous while I drop some names on you:
While at the airport Saturday morning we saw Rahul Dravid, very popular player and former Captain of the Indian national cricket team and Bangalore native. While we were at the Grand Hyatt - Santa Cruz Station hotel we saw Meher Jesia, former supermodel; Arjun Ramphal, current Bollywood Star (his most recent movie "Rock On" is a huge box office success over here) and husband of the aforementioned Meher Jesia; Rohit Bal, famous Indian fashion designer; and Harsha Bogle, a very famous Indian cricket analyst and commentator.

Evidently this was the place to see and be seen this weekend.


After one final interview on Sunday morning, I had just enough time for a whirlwind tour of the city before my return flight. The hotel arranged a driver for me. When he asked me what I wanted to see I said "Show me as much as you can".

Here's where he took me.


Stop 1. The Hanging Gardens

The hanging gardens sit on top of a huge water tank atop Malabar Hill, an exclusive neighborhood of the Mumbai rich and famous (financiers, Bollywood movie stars, etc.). It comes across as just a nice little neigborhood park. Looked like people use it for the daily/weekly strolls.




Some attempt at topiary sculpting. A lot of the sculpted trees/bushes had little placards next to them telling you what they were, or what they were supposed to be. Not a real sign of success. The elephant and giraffe (?) were two of the more successful ones.




Not-quite-all-the-way-stopped stop 2: Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus is the Mumbai train station, and is also known by the old British name of Victoria Terminus. It is supposedly the busiest train station in all of Asia. I took the first picture from the slow-moving car, as there was nowhere to easily pull over and park for a few minutes.


I grabbed this photo off the web, to give you a better idea about how big this thing is and it's ornate design. I definitely wished I had more time to explore this building.




Stop 3. Gateway of India

Next stop was the Gateway of India, built in 1911 to commemorate the royal visit of King George V. Sorry about all the scaffolding and plastic sheeting. I asked them to be taken down so I could snap a couple of nicer photos, but my request was denied.










Across the street from the Gateway of India arch is the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, a very ornate blend of Islamic and Renaissance stylings. It was built in 1903 by a wealthy Indian industrialist after he was refused entry to one of the other neighboring European hotels because he was an Indian native. I think it's safe to say that he showed them.


Cliff diving, city style!




Stop 4: St. Thomas Cathedral

St. Thomas Cathedral is the oldest English building in Mumbai. Construction began in 1672. It's style is a blend of Byzantine and British colonial. The white-washed interior certainly gives it a very airy feel. Lots of memorials, grave stones, and commemorative plaques inside.










Stop 5: Cross Maidan

Cross Maidan is a little green belt that runs through part of the city. It's just down the street from St. Thomas Cathedral, so I spent a few minutes wondering around. Ornate fountains and memorials dot the carefully landscaped areas.

This first fountain is the Flora Fountain (1869), named after the Roman goddess of abundance.




One of the many differences between Bangalore and Mumbai is the latter actually has some interesting architecture. All of these buildings are within a block or two radius of Cross Maidan and Veer Nariman Road.











Stop 6: Mahalaxi Temple

Mahalaxi Temple is dedicated to the goddess of wealth (of the same name). Once again, no photography is permitted inside the temple. So we're left with a few images of the bazaar that unerringly springs up around each and every temple.











No-time-for stop 7: Haji Ali Mosque

We ran out of time. I was hoping to make the short walk out to the Haji Ali Mosque, but I had to setle for a short view from the car. The mosque was buitl in the 19th century as the tomb of Muslim saint Haji. As the legend goes, Haji died while on a pilgrimage to Mecca and his casket mysteriously floated back to this very spot. The mosque is built on a little rock island out in the bay; a small causeway leads out there from the mainland that is actually covered by water at high tide.

No good photos, so I was left to grab one off the web. This specific picture can't be very recent, as the mosque I saw was definitely a little worse-for-wear, but very interesting nonetheless.





On the way to the airport: the Mumbai skyline on a very warm, humid afternoon. By the way. . .that's the Arabian Sea in the picture. The Arabian Sea! That's a part of the larger Indian Ocean. The Indian Ocean!


There are a few beaches in Mumbai, but they are not very attractive. In fact, think of the exact opposite of "attractive" and that best descibes the beaches in and around the city. I did not put my feet in the water. One look and you would not have either. I hope and suspect that I will have another chance to take the plunge in the not-too-distant future. . .



Postscript: Yep, that's really two oxen pulling a bright silver mini-temple-looking-something-or-other down the middle of the street in the middle of the day. And it probably only gets a second look from us foreigners. . .




Sunday, September 14, 2008

I scream. . .you scream. . .

Western civilization is slowly encroaching upon the Indian subcontinent. . .and thank goodness!

(Please begin humming either "Hallelujah" or the theme from "2001: A Space Odyssey", or just know that I'm humming one of those two, if not both, for you right now)










Mmmmm. . .just plain chocolate ice cream. . .delicious!


(hopefully a little diversion for anyone out there who needs one)

We All Scream for Ice Cream

8:00pm: Who knew what joy a simple bowl of ice cream could bring? But I suppose life's simpler pleasures can often have the greatest impact on our lives. In fact, I sit here fighting the urge to eat the rest of the ice cream right here and now. Simple pleasures do not seem to be as abundant here in India.



8:21pm: It's the oddest thing. I swear I hear the ice cream carton bumping against the inside of the freezer door. It has to be my imagination. I get up, open the freezer, and check the ice cream carton. OK, it's right where I put it. . .but was the label facing out when I put it away? And why is the hair on the back of my neck standing up? I think this place is finally getting to me.

8:27pm: There it is again. It's like a bump. . .bump. . .thud, bump. . .bump. . .thud. I choose to ignore what I'm sure is my overactive imagination.

8:41pm: What was that?! I mute the TV. Silence. I think I'll listen for a few minutes before un-muting the TV.

8:43pm: There! From somewhere in the kitchen. Not the same noise as a little while ago. It's like a small chocolate-y whisper. I can't make out any words. This is crazy. I get up and turn some more lights on. I also turn the TV sound up a bit.

8:57pm: Power failure! I'm plunged into darkness. OK, no need to panic. This actually happens all the time. The Indian electricity supply is incredibly unreliable. We're lucky to get though any day without a couple of power outages. The power usually comes back on in a minute or two. I can survive a couple of minutes in the dark without freaking out, even if the strange whispers emanating from the freezer seem to have grown a bit louder. There seems to be a little more structure to them as well, but they still remain undecipherable.

9:02pm: The power clunks back on: just a quick outage this time. But we must be running on the building's generator power, as I don't actually hear the refrigerator-freezer running (the refrigerator runs solely off the main electrical supply around here). All I can hear are the continued (imagined?) freezer noises, and my heart pounding in my chest. The freezer noises are still not much more than whispers, but suddenly become something recognizable, something familiar. . .it's the audio track from The Wizard of Oz. . .specifically the scene in which the Wicked Witch of the West meets her demise! I cannot bring myself to type out the words I'm hearing. . .

This is crazy. There has to be a perfectly rational and logical explanation for all of this. This isn't some Stephen King novel. This kind of thing just doesn't happen in real life.

Then it hits me: How long before ice cream in a non-functioning freezer starts to melt? Melted and re-frozen ice cream is never as good. Never! I would have to eat It rather than see It go to waste. Right? But It won't start to melt for at least 30 minutes, maybe longer. But I will have to eat It. The thought lingers in my head. I cannot will it away. Something strange is happening here. I suddenly feel like I'm being tested, and not the good kind of test. This is something different. Bad different.

All I know is I cannot give in. I will not give in. The main power will come back on in a minute or two. It always does. Always. And when it does those sounds coming from the freezer will stop. They will. I know They will. They have to. They just have to.

9:05pm: The refrigerator-freezer clunks back to life. The main power is back on. It knows that I know It is safe again. It's cries do cease. For now at least. An air of expectation (possibly dread) fills the room. I sit and I wait.

9:21pm: Another power outage. It's call is stronger now. There's a pleading quality that is almost unbearable. I must resist.

9:27pm: Power back on. Refrigerator-freezer back on. My nerves are nearly shot. This unreliable Indian electricity supply may prove to be the end of me yet.



11:43pm: It's been more than two hours since my last entry. There's been four more power outages, each one longer than the last. The last one was 28 minutes. The whispers have gradually become screams. I can't take much more of this. I know now It is causing these power outages. I know It is learning to keep the power off for longer and longer periods of time. I know what It is trying to get me to do. Still I resist. But I know the next outage (and there will be a next one, of that I'm certain) will surely bring with it The Time of Melting. I will have no other choice but to succumb to It's wishes, as my strength is nearly gone, and with it my resolve. I do not want to do what ultimately I know I will have to do. I just need the screams to stop. Please judge me for the person I have been, and not the person I am about to become.

Maybe it would help to try to build up my strength again; maybe by eating some sort of creamy chocolate-y treat. . .


Saturday, September 6, 2008

The Nandi Hills

Nandidurg Hill, more commonly referred to as the Nandi Hills, is about 60km (~37 miles) north of Bangalore. They are these massive granite mounds that stick up out of the ground. The top of the main hill is 1500 feet above the surrounding terrain (4500 ft total elevation) which means that the views from the top are absolutely spectacular. The Nandi Hills is the source of the Penner, Ponnaiyar, and Palar rivers. Nandi Hills gets its name from an ancient Nandi temple situated on this hill. This temple has a thousand year old sculpture of Nandi (the bull upon which Shiva rides). An ancient lord Shiva and Parvati temple also adorns this hill. This used to be the summer retreat of Tipu Sultan.


Sultan Fateh Ali Tipu (November 20, 1750, Devanahalli – May 4, 1799, Srirangapattana), also known as the Tiger of Mysore, was the ruler of the Indian Kingdom of Mysore from 1782 (the time of his father's death) until his own demise in 1799. He was the first son of Haidar Ali by his second wife, Fatima or Fakhr-un-nissa. Tipu Sultan died defending the capital city of Srirangapattana against the British.


Views of the surrounding countryside. It was late afternoon by the time we got here after visiting the Banyan tree, so I hope these photos aren't too dark.








The temple with the millenium-old Nandi sculpture.




The Shiva and Parvati temple.













The Banyan Tree

A couple of us braved the roads to visit the oldest/largest Banyan tree in southern India (or so they tell me) this afternoon. The Banyan tree is on the western outskirts of Bangalore. It's a pretty incredible sight.

Older banyan trees are characterized by their aerial prop roots which grow downward from branches into thick woody trunks which with age can become indistinguishable from the main trunk. Old trees can spread out laterally using these prop roots to cover a fairly wide area. This one certainly shows these characteristics in abundance: it's hard to tell what/where the original main trunk is. I'm guessing that by themselves the trunk roots just can't slurp enough water to sustain the tree growth so the Banyan has developed a way to literally plant more roots into the soil.

All these images are of the Banyan. Just one tree. The one shot that was not possible to get was an establishing, wide, overview shot. The surrounding land was just too flat. The amount of land coverage was staggering.

















A close-up view of one of the aerial prop roots that has planted itself into the ground.



And finally: the obligatory monkey shot.




Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Ganesha Chaturthi

Ganapathi Bappa Morya, Purchya Varshi Laukar ya

Lord Ganesha, the elephant-headed son of Shiva and Parvati, is widely worshipped as the supreme god of wisdom, prosperity and good fortune. Ganesha Chaturthi (Ganesha Festival) is the day in which the Lord Ganesha is believed to bestow his presence on earth for all his devotees.



The legend (borrowed from Wikipedia):
Lord Shiva (the Hindu God of resolution) was away at a war. His wife Pavarti wanted to bathe but had no one to guard the door to her house. She conceived of the idea of creating a son who could guard the door for her. Parvati created Ganesha out of the sandalwood paste that she used for her bath and breathed life into the figure. She then set him to stand guard at her door and instructed him not to let anyone enter.

When Lord Shiva returned from the battle Ganesha did not know him and stopped Shiva from entering Parvati's chamber. Shiva, enraged by Ganesh’s impudence, drew his sword and cut off Ganesha's head. Pavarti emerged to find Ganesha decapitated and flew into a rage. She took on the form of the Goddess Kali and threatened destruction to the three worlds of Heaven, Earth, and the subterranean earth.

Lord Shiva, in an attempt to pacify Parvati, sent out his ganas (minions) to bring back the head of the first living being whose head faced the north (the cardinal direction associated with wisdom). This first living thing happened to be an elephant. Shiva placed the elephant head on the trunk of Parvati's son and breathed life into him. Parvati was overjoyed and embraced her son, the elephant-headed boy whom Shiva named Ganesha, the Lord of his ganas.



Specifics vary by region, but the Ganesha festival is celebrated for 1, 3, 5, 7, or 10 days. These specific durations seem to be determined by the lunar cycle and are left to personal choice for the celebrants. To this westerner the festival seems to be part Christmas and part Mardi Gras, with maybe just a bit of Halloween thrown in.

Our driver took us to one of the workshops at which the Ganesha idol statues are created by local artisans. All the statues are mad from the same raw materials (straw, burlap, clay, paint) and then sculpted and painted by hand.







The first part of the festival is choosing the Ganesha statue. I will liken this to picking out a Christmas tree (and hope the analogy is not blasphemous in any way). There are "Ganesha ido statue" lots all over the city. People wander from lot to lot looking for just the right one. There is every size and shape imaginable. The Ganeshas have different outfits, are painted different (usually wildly vibrant) colors, and are often posed with either his mother and/or his father, each of which can have their own variations. Here are but a few examples:























The little blonde girl in the following photo is Erik's & Helen's (our production manager & wife) daughter Annika. Her little brother August is also very blonde; they always attract a great deal of attention from the locals. . .



The second part of the festival is the display the Ganesha idol. It would seem that small neighborhoods of people will pool their money to buy a statue that they then display at the end of their block or alley. The statues remain covered until the appropriate hour on the first day of the festival. Once the statues are uncovered, people wander from neighborhood to neighborhood looking at all the different idols. Each neighborhood also decorates their street with lights, plays Festival music from loudspeakers, and cooks a few delicacies that get passed out to all the visitors (kind of like Halloween? maybe more like looking at the Christmas windows in the downtown department stores if the department stores passed out food).










The festival is a chance to wear one's finest clothes. . .


The final step, once the chosen celebration/viewing period is done, is to immerse the statue in water. This returns the divinity of Lord Ganesha (as represented by the idol) back to the earth, and represents the cycle of creation and dissolution in Nature. The immersion is done at the local lakes. These venues become very large street parties (a la Mardi Gras) as people parade their statues down the street on their way to the immersion points: lots of music, lots of singing and carrying on, lots of car horns. It's quite a sight and sound. The larger idols are loaded onto cranes and then swung out and into the lakes.




Monday, September 1, 2008

Before I take My Leave

Please permit me to paraphrase Helen Keller:
Life is a great adventure. . .or it's nothing at all. . .



I stepped onto the Indian subcontinent with a bit of an open-ended business arrangement: I'm expecting to be here at least until the end of October and possibly as late as the middle of December. I'm hoping to make the most of the potentially short tourism time, for I suspect I may not be back this way again.

Here are the things I feel I should make every effort to do while I'm here: 1) visit the Taj Mahal, 2) gaze upon the Himalayas, 3) swim in the Indian Ocean, and 4) stand on the southern-most tip of the Indian subcontinent.

I also have some friends who have recently travelled this part of the world and have encouraged me to visit the magical state of Rajasthan: specifically the cities of Udaipur, Jodhpur, and Jaipur.

I hope future blog entries will confirm all (or at least most) of this wish list fulfilled.